Wine: 1997 Napa Cabs. Time to Drink With Pizza

The second-tier 1997 Napa Cabernet Sauvignons, in most cases, have probably reached or are past their peak.  Take the Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyard 1997 Eloge for example. In the glass, the nose still makes me think of a right bank Bordeaux. The wine’s once firm tannins have softened nicely during its years in the bottle and it has developed a beautiful mahogany color around the rim, but it’s losing some of its fruit. It’s still slightly sweet with some vanilla and oak, but the leather, tobacco and coffee notes are coming through much stronger now. This is not unusual among the other 97’s I’ve tasted recently. For me, this represents a great opportunity for new parings with pizza.

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Three Onion Pie

I love red wine with onions. It’s a classic combination that perhaps started with Coq au Vin (which legend has it dates back to Julius Caesar). Supposedly, the combination is good for your heart too. Bonus!

For this pie, yellow and red onions were sprinkled with EVOO and pecan smoked kosher salt. After roasting in the oven, they were gently tossed with a little Texas Olive Ranch mesquite smoked olive oil. The sourdough pie was topped lightly with dry whole milk mozzarella, the roasted onions, dry thyme, and fresh ground black pepper. After a 60 second bake at 900°F, thinly sliced green onions were added post-bake.

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The pie balanced perfectly with the ’97 Eloge. Somewhere between a Tignanello and pizza and a St. Émilion and onion tart, the sweetness of the onions filled in perfectly where the wine’s fruit had diminished and the smoky richness of the caramelized onion and charred tips complemented perfectly the subtle oak. All the while, the now showcased darker, earthy flavors of the wine paired with the crust, cheese, and multi-layered savory onion flavors.

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